The Kupkari game

The courage of jigits (equestrians) is legendary. For centuries, the sportsmen of Uzbekistan have won respect for their strength and courage in playing traditional games, including the brutal horseback game of kupkari.

Words by Karomat Gaffarova

Photos by Gazeta.uz/Madina Azam

The game of kupkari has been played in Central Asia for centuries and is considered one of the oldest equestrian games in the world. The first written record of kupkari is from the 13th century, around the time of Genghis Khan. Also called ulak or buzkashi, it is a traditional equestrian tournament played throughout Central Asia. Riders compete for possession of an animal carcass (usually a goat or a young ram) – the winner must reach the finish line without allowing other riders to snatch the carcass away.

In Turkic, ‘kup’ means ‘many’ and in Persian ‘kari’ means ‘work’ or ‘deed’, so the name of the game means ‘the deeds of many’.

Kupkari and other traditional games have long served as entertainment at special events, but more than that, they also served as a kind of qualifying test for the best warriors. Kupkari is still very popular today, and is played exclusively by men, as it is considered extremely dangerous. Traditionally, during a match, women and girls would sing songs and support the players.

Preparing for the game 

Kupkari is usually played in spring or autumn when weddings are traditionally celebrated and during the spring festival of Navruz. Careful preparations are made in advance. Before the start, a council meets to decide on organisational issues, such as what prizes will be offered and the competition venue. Usually, the game takes place in the countryside on a wide plain surrounded by hills where spectators can sit on higher ground to watch.

The bakaulbashi (referee) is chosen with utmost care – only a highly respected person can fill this role. The ulok (animal carcass) is prepared the day before the contest. On the day of the competition, players arrive on their graceful horses. Depending on the type of kupkari being played, there may be between 20 and 400 different players. Spectators gather in the viewing area and large circles (marra) are drawn or a pot is dug or placed to serve as each team’s goal. Players must toss the carcass into the marra to score points.

There are a few variants of kupkari. In one, players are divided into two opposing teams and the winner is the team that scores the highest. In another version, players compete individually without a team, riding around the field in a giant scrum and competing for possession of the goat.

Only the most well-trained riders on physically fit and disciplined horses can participate. Each horse is chosen for its strength, endurance and short stature – important for allowing riders to easily pick up the carcass from the ground (it often falls during the game). Horses are trained in endurance and agility, and to fight off opponents and gallop at great speed.

Kupkari riders wear protective helmets, quilted cotton robes and trousers as, during gameplay, jigits are often jostled, bumped or even hit each other with whips, which is not against the rules.

The rider who first reaches the finish line with the carcass is the winner and receives a valuable prize. In the past, winners were rewarded with livestock, carpets or horses. Nowadays, the prizes are usually modern household items, machinery and even cars.

Kupkari is an incredible spectacle. Like plov, this game has become an icon of Uzbekistan for visitors and locals alike.