MARU: A brand inspired by traditions
Photographer: Talgat Girmanov
Each time visiting fashion show of Uzbek designers, you can’t stop admiring the abundance of colors of national fabrics and creative solutions of fashion models. We visited studio of Markhamat Umarova, one of the talented designers, owner of brand MARU.
Among the variety of high-end names of local couturiers, the brand MARU stands out. Its author, Markhamat Umarova, is not one of all. MARU is a big name that has long been associated with chick, sophisticated ideas and super quality outfits. On a warm spring evening, the designer’s studio was all in working process, but at the same time, cozy atmosphere.
The conversation was fascinating; Markhamat shared her impressions, future and current projects. “I never limit myself,” says the master. I do not seek to participate exclusively in international fashion shows. For me, our local defiles are also mportant, because I get new and useful information for myself. For several years already, I have been taking part in the Atlas Bayrami International Festival, organized by UNESCO in the city of Margilan.
Fashion experts from many other countries always come to it. I participate in Atlas Bayrami as a coach, I also present my collection and I always find it very interesting. Recently, I was a part of Kazakhstan Fashion Week, where Italian couturiers and major Italian fashion experts were members of the jury in the “Fashion for future” competition. The concept of the competition was to create modern, innovative fashion solutions, preserving traditions. This principle is very close to my creativity, since it precisely underlines the brand MARU “Respecting traditions and in harmony with the present.” In my work, I always strive to use a modern approach to cutting, to creating models, but without violating the traditional principles of using national fabrics”.
Our conversation progressed over a cup of fragrant hot tea. Markhamat Umarova told about the unique experience and exclusive knowledge that she gains while studying national textiles in the regions of Uzbekistan.
“I deeply study the national costume.In addition, I learn about Uzbek oral folklore: legends, various parables, as well as other types of crafts, about traditional architecture, because it’s all really very interconnected, it’s a whole ecosystem”.
The master is always looking for new sources of knowledge and inspiration, and she claims that the heritage of Uzbek national culture is so rich and has not been fully studied.
“During my visit to Japan, I studied the characteristics of the traditional kimono. I was particularly impressed with the seam technique and having studied it, when I returned to Tashkent I was able to successfully apply this unique technique in creating new models. It turned out very original.”
MARU brand is focused on active and energetic women living in the rhythm of a big city, but at the same time, not forgetting about beauty and femininity. The outfits created by Markhamat Umarova from Uzbek national fabrics are all practical and have a modern style.
“When participating in fashion shows abroad with my foreign colleagues, I always notice that the collections of Uzbek designers are always very cheerful. After all, our hand-made fabrics are so authentic. They are connected with the nature of Uzbekistan, with different traditions, with the mentality of our people. And I feel great pride in my nationality, because we are in fact very different in the richness of culture, even from our neighbors. Once, during my trip abroad, I was interviewed where the question was: “Is it easy to be a designer in Uzbekistan?” I replied: “Easy! Because in our country there is such a rich variety of fabrics and this is all closely connected with our culture and history. We are very lucky in this matter and there are always sources of inspiration.”
