Uncovering Kokand
Lying in the huge, sloping basin of the Fergana Valley between the great Tien Shan, Gissar and Alay mountain ranges, is the richly historic city of Kokand. Centuries-old Uzbek customs are woven into the fabric of this city, where there is a story on almost every street corner. Thomas Hunt takes a trip to uncover the historic city.
Photos by Feruz Rustamov and Andrey Arakelyan
Bright hues colour the walls of its old mosques and madrassahs, punctuating otherwise austere streets. They are delicately patterned with beautiful shades of blue on small, mosaic tiles. Kokand has 300 mosques, and its streets come alive with groups of men when the imam sings the adhan (call for prayer) over a booming speaker. They rush out of their houses and offices, some in casualwear and some in smarter clothing, and into the mosques to pray, then pour out again when worship has finished.
There is no doubt that Kokand has a simpler feel to it, in contrast with the urban mayhem of Andijan to its east. But that doesn’t mean there is nothing to see. In fact, hidden along Kokand’s back streets and quiet corners are a variety of sights. Among them is the impressive Jami Mosque, a three-sided, wood-ceilinged masterpiece with a wide-girthed prayer tower in the middle. Equally cool is the Madari Khan Mausoleum, a spectacularly decorated tomb built to commemorate the late Khan of Kokand, Muhammad Umar Khan. But the main attraction is undoubtedly the imposing Khudoyar Khan Palace, which stands proudly in the city’s main park fronted by beds of gorgeous flowers. It looks even grander if viewed from the long-drawn bridge that connects the small amphitheatre just outside to the palace’s giant front doors.
Another building of note is the Museum of Great Scholars, which opened to the public in 2017, and overlooks a wide, open square below it. The museum chronicles the famous thinkers of Uzbekistan, from writers and poets to philosophers and architects, and contains manuscripts and large paintings of many historical figures. It is split into five sections focusing on the science and culture of Central Asia and the personalities of the Timurid era (15th century), when Uzbekistan flourished with artistic and intellectual life. The museum reflects the pride that the city’s residents have for the heroes of Uzbekistan’s past and showcases the depth of talent it has produced over the centuries.
Kokand’s weather is similar to most of the rest of the country – a predominantly continental climate alternating between moderately cold winters and hot summers, and receiving only small amounts of rain all year round. I visited in October when the weather brought strong winds and cool, cloudy conditions with temperatures in the low to mid-teens (°C), a far cry from the scorching heat during the summer months. In fact, it reminded me much more of the UK’s weather at that time of year.
As it was the start of autumn, yellow beech leaves were whipped by swirling gusts along the streets and through parks. On a stroll through town, I spotted men busy, working away in streetside garages on clapped-out, old cars, which people seemed determined to have patched up and continue driving around.
This constant hustle was admirable: whether it be shopkeepers, garage staff or street vendors – everyone was busy at work, and I imagined most wanting to provide for their families. Flashpoints of activity were found in the markets, where big spreads of fruit, vegetables, bread and pastries were guarded by women and men shouting out for people to buy their produce while punters hurriedly dashed about.
If you would like to try a local speciality, the flatbread from the region, called Kokand patyr non, is a good choice. These huge flatbreads, with a crumbly middle and chunky crust, are sold on almost every street corner and in the city’s markets. They completely outsize the smaller, more familiar-looking Uzbek breads that are sold widely across the country. Another gastronomical speciality from the region is Kokand plov, a special steamed rice dish with garlic and hot pepper on top. The rice itself is a special type called devzira and, as with most rice dishes in Central Asia, it is boiled, fried and marinated in huge vats and served with important spicy condiments. It can be seen advertised on flimsy restaurant signs and is a staple dish for most locals, eaten with heaping spoonfuls of local pride.
It lived up to expectations, as did the hearty halva, a rich, oily confectionery. This delightful dessert comes in a variety of types including sunflower seed, nut and peanut variations with additions of cocoa powder, chocolate and vanilla. They have the appearance of Turkish delight and almost immediately melt in your mouth – they are commonly eaten with tea after a meal. There is even a festive halva, which is prepared for certain holidays and special occasions. For example, sugar syrup halva is bought for a wedding and put on a tray for the bride's dowry along with other sweets.
If you want a dose of unique Uzbek culture, Kokand and its neighbours in the Fergana Valley make the perfect place to explore.
