Tashkent nights

Originally from Moscow, Irina Papina is an art lover with an impressive background in finance and management, who fell in love with Uzbekistan. In this new series, she tells us how to live like a local in Tashkent. 

Text and photos: Irina Papina

State Conservatory

What kind of traveller are you? I go back and forth between ‘ I want everything to be perfect and plan to the letter’ and ‘I think the best way to explore is to get lost and trust the city’. But, whether you are a control freak or a groovy hippie when it comes to your travels, Tashkent has loads to offer. In this short series of articles, I want to share several tricks on how to turn just another evening into a night to remember in the capital of Uzbekistan. All tricks spotted by an-almost-local: me!

Let’s say you fancy some music. My go-to is jazz bar Maqom. Its design looks as sassy as the cool kids who frequent it. Daily live music is accompanied by exquisite food and drinks that feel like an effortless luxury. Make sure you try their sumalak cocktail, which transports you from the urban centre of Tashkent to the very roots of traditional Uzbek flavours. Another must is the dessert menu created by a very special pastry chef, Artyom Gaifullin, who holds Le Cordon Bleu diploma.

Keeping on with the jazzy mood, why don’t we dig deep and embrace more of the city’s music scene?

 Luckily, Tashkent has the outstanding Ilkhom Theatre, which hosts all sorts of contemporary performing arts. Try to aim for a night when the Ilkhom Jazz Club is on – it’s an evening filled with great music and the joy of many talented people doing what they love: speaking the international language of jazz. Each performance is special thanks to the creative genius of Saidmurat Muratov, leader of the band Jazzirama and a great sax player.

Feeling classy? See a classical music concert at the State Conservatory followed by a glass of bubbly at the Hilton rooftop bar, which – conveniently – is located right across the road. 

Hilton rooftop bar

In the mood to dance your heart out? Steam Вar has two floors of rock and pop that don’t let the hips lie. And you can fuel up for the dance floor with their burgers, too. 

I hope this list has plenty to keep you busy! Stay tuned for the next issue, when I’ll be bringing you ideas for an artsy afternoon out in Tashkent.  

Follow Irina:

Instagram - @irene_daybyday

Telegram channel - t.me/irenynotinparis

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Dildora Kasimova collection

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Legendary cafes