Silk
The development of silk cultivation in Uzbekistan has deep roots. According to some historical data, the practice of silkworm cultivation and silk spinning existed 4000 years ago in southern Uzbekistan, in the Fergana Valley and also at the source of the Zarafshan River.
Text and imagery by Sabina Odinayeva
The history of Uzbek silk dates back to the second millennium BCE, to the time of the famous Great Silk Road, which connected the West and the East. According to legend, one of the rulers of the Fergana Valley became interested in silk products from China, and then he decided to produce silk at home and ordered his subordinates to unlock the secrets of making silk. And so began the production of silk.
To this day, a variety of silk products are made in Uzbekistan: fabrics, carpets, clothing, headdresses and much more. Uzbekistan's rich tradition of silk production, its climate, high population density and abundance of labour in the countryside make silk cultivation a promising industry for investment.
Kashkadarya and Surkhandarya Silk Tour
The Uzbekipaksanoat Association invited the Visit Uzbekistan team on a press tour to the Kashkadarya and Surkhandarya regions on 11-13 November, where we learned about the fascinating process of silk production and saw the results of ongoing reforms to Uzbekistan’s silk industry. The association’s main objective is to improve the production and processing of mulberry silkworm cocoons and the production of silk fabrics.
It all starts with the care of the small larvae. In Surkhandarya, we visited Huashen Silkworm Pro, a Chinese-Uzbek joint venture where more than 40,000 mulberry silkworm larvae are reared, providing a silk base for the entire Surkhandarya region. Specialist Shen Haozhong, who was invited from China to train Uzbek silk workers, introduced us to the silkworm-rearing process.
The larvae require special conditions — they are kept in a temperature-controlled room and their development is monitored daily. The small silkworm embryos are light yellow or milky in colour. During the growing season, a silkworm larva goes through four stages of maturation.
After four moults (skin regeneration), a caterpillar body increases in size by more than thirty times and its body takes on a yellowish tint. In total, the silkworm caterpillar grows and develops for about a month and, just before pupation, loses all interest in food.
There is a continuous buzz in the silkworm growing room as thousands of caterpillars chew on leaves. Under its lower lip, the insect has special glands that can produce a jelly-like silk substance, which hardens into a fine silk thread. When the time comes, the caterpillar fixes its body on a sturdy base and begins to form a mesh framework around itself, and then weaves the cocoon by winding the thread around itself in a 'figure of eight'. In three to four days, the cocoon is completely ready. The thread in a finished cocoon can range from 300m to 1.5km.
After eight or nine days, the cocoons are harvested, sorted by colour and size, and prepared for subsequent unwinding by dipping them into boiling water. This process is carried out by special machines. The finished threads are distributed for export and further production of silk products.
Uniquely Uzbek Silk
Silk has been a source of hard currency for centuries. Silk production is a labour-intensive industry and today provides jobs for thousands of households in rural areas. Uzbekistan produces exceptionally natural silk: it is soft, pleasant to touch, gently adheres to the body and flows beautifully. It is renowned for its high durability, breathability (good for hot climates), lightness and hypoallergenicity, as the fabrics are dyed exclusively with natural dyes.
In recent years, Uzbekistan has developed efficient methods for growing silkworms. Whereas it was once only possible to produce a single batch of silk fibre each year, it is now possible to produce four batches of silk thread regardless of the season.
Material that used to go to waste is now being recycled; for example, leftover filaments are used to make silk wool, which is practically the same price as silk threads. And the larvae can be used as livestock feed.
Another important feature of silk production in Uzbekistan is the existence of a complete supply chain from mulberry larvae to finished fabrics. Carpet mills and fabric and garment factories create the finished products, which are distributed to retail outlets and are in great demand among locals and tourists alike.
Today Uzbekistan is the third largest silk producer in the world after China and India. The main objective of the Uzbekipaksanoat Association is to help Uzbekistan become a world leader in this production.
Natural or artificial silk?
Simply pull out a few strands of silk and light them on fire. Natural silk will not burn, but there will be a slight smell of burnt hair.
From a shopper
“I am a doctor and my work took me to the city of Termez in Surkhandarya region. Your fabrics are something special and so beautiful! This silk shop is my favourite place in town! Every pattern means something and definitely lifts one's spirits.”
– Filiz Erdogan Maraslioglu
