Reasons to visit Khorezm
Text by Farangiz Salokhodjaeva
In the southwest of Uzbekistan, at the crossroads of Central Asia lies the region of Khorezm. Its fertile soil and mild climate have attracted people since ancient times, and because of this, it was a centre of ancient culture. Impressive fortresses and royal palaces were built in antiquity and the early medieval eras, some dating back almost three thousand years. These astonishing constructions are on a par with the Egyptian pyramids and Greek temples in terms of their importance and complexity. Khorezm can also rightly be considered the birthplace of the Zoroastrian religion, whose foundations are reflected in the distinctive local culture.
Here are 10 reasons to visit this lesser-known but no less beautiful part of Uzbekistan.
Ancient Khiva
Khiva, the heart of Khorezm and the first city in Uzbekistan inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1990, is one of the most ancient locations on the Silk Road. It has been a centre of education, science and culture, and a cradle of civilisations for 3000 years. The Old City of Khiva is a collection of well-preserved palaces and bastions, mosques with minarets, madrasahs, burial vaults, bathing complexes and inns that once made up a vast fortress. Towering over the old town, it’s hard to miss the turquoise-tiled Kalta Minor Minaret, which was built in the 1850s by a khan who wanted to see all the way to Bukhara.
Local Language
The distinctive dialect of the region’s inhabitants has preserved elements of the ancient Khorezmian language – evidence of the people's rich history. The dialect was formed by the mixing of the languages of Turkistan and East Iranian. It was originally spoken by Khorezmians prior to the 1st century CE. A glance into history reveals that Khorezm resisted any power from outside; for example, Khorezmian women never wore a paranja (veiled robe).
Sufi Sights
Before the 1st century CE, the ancient Khorezmians were powerful and knowledgeable. The memorial complex of Pakhlavan Mahmud in Khiva is a place of pilgrimage as it is the tomb of the namesake poet, enlightener, Sufi and philosopher. Mahmud was famous for his nobility, wisdom and poetry, and was Khiva’s patron saint. A famous wrestler, Pahlavon Mahmud took part in matches and tournaments in India, Afghanistan, Iraq and Iran. He wrote primarily rubai (quatrains) and poems, the most famous of which, "Kanzul Hakoyik" (“Collection of Truths”), reflects the ideas of Sufism.
Land of Insights
Khorezm is famous not only for its history but also for producing talented figures of science and art, including the great scholar Muhammad ibn Musa al-Khwarizmi. He is considered the grandfather of computer sciences and the creator of algebra. Musicians Komiljon Otaniyazov and Olmakhon Khaitova are also worth mentioning among his contemporaries. Komiljon Otaniyozov gave most of his royalties to orphanages, while Olmakhon Khaitova delighted the people of Uzbekistan with her songs and playing of the rubab (similar to a lute).
Magical music
Music is the Khorezmian people's main inspiration. Here, people of all ages and backgrounds love to sing and dance. From early childhood, young people learn how to move to the rhythm of the fiery local dance, the lyazgi. Initially, Khorezmian dances were performed only by men during city celebrations or in the ruler’s palace, but this has changed over time and the dance is now performed by people of all genders. The great polymath Avicenna called this dance "the melody that gives life to the dead" because of its lively steps and slow-building movements. Its distinctive musical attributes are the kairok, an instrument consisting of a flat rock knocked against a steel plate, and the choirma, or caracole hat, which serves as the symbol of the sacredness of the dance.
Arts and Crafts
Khorezm is a land of many crafts and local children learn craft-making from an early age. From time immemorial the masters of Khiva have been famous for their artistic flair, fine taste and high workmanship. The region is considered a centre of artistic metalwork, woodcarving, special gift knives with a pointed blade called a guldor pichok, carpet weaving, jewellery, painting and more. Khivan ceramics are particularly special because they combine a turquoise glaze with white background and vice versa. The style of painting on tableware is identical to that of the local architectural decorations. And from the 19th century until the early 20th century, Khorezm was also a centre of stone carving.
Citadels and Fortresses
Ancient Khiva has been called the ‘Egypt of Central Asia’, as there are more than a dozen fortresses in the city. The city is divided into the inner Ichan-Kala (shahristan) and the outer town, Dishan-Kala (rabad). Spread over 26 hectares, the Ichan-Kala fortress is surrounded by a 10m-thick earthen wall. There are about 60 grandiose constructions dating to the 5th and 6th centuries concentrated into an open-air museum: palaces of rulers, mosques, madrasahs, mausoleums and minarets. The tourist route includes excursions to the Kunya Ark citadel complex, the Tash-Khauli palace complex, the unfinished Kalta-Minor minaret, which is covered with glazed tiles, the famous Juma mosque with its 213 carved columns and the 45m-high Islam Khoja minaret – the best viewing platform in the city.
Stunning Landscapes
Ecotourism is on the rise in Uzbekistan and Khorezm is a hotspot thanks to its biodiversity and stunning landscapes. There are camel and horse rides through the Kyzylkum Desert, boating, fishing, an ostrich farm to visit and overnight stays in cosy yurts.
A short drive from the ancient city of Khiva, near the village of Chinobod, a narrow flat road leads to an artificial lake in the heart of Kyzylkum – an ideal place for fishing. On 20 hectares there is an artificial fish pond, where about 30 tons of various fish per year are raised. Special piers and facilities offer recreation along the Shovot Canal in Urgench. Around 90 km from Urgench on the lakeshore is the 3000-year-old Kaladjik Fortress. A health resort was constructed here to take advantage of the salty lake’s healing properties. Water treatments are aimed at cardiovascular and nervous system health, treatment of joint ailments and kidney function, among others.
Fabulous Food
The Khorezm region is famous for its flatbreads, fish and the best varieties of rice. Patir (layered flatbread) is a typical snack here — the popular qizil patir is made with tomato sauce, while other types are kneaded with milk or topped with cracklings.
Khorezm’s hearty dumplings are made with an unusual filling called tukhum barak or yumurta barak: a liquid mixture of beaten egg, milk and melted butter or sesame oil. Sometimes a little minced meat or fried onion is also added. Cooked dumplings are dipped in kefir.
Khorem’s other trademark dishes include shvit oshi, a type of lagman (noodles) made green by the use of dill. A popular appetiser is etjan (itzhan) — uncooked, spiced minced meat smeared on bread. For dessert, there are many varieties of melons, such as the special gurvak melon. In summer, Khiva hosts the Melon Festival Fair, where more than 50 varieties of melons are exhibited.
Intertwining Faith
Khorezm’s ancient constructions depict patterns and pictures that are characteristic of a variety of religions. Various ancient pagan cults were once widespread here, but Zoroastrianism was predominant. The architecture of Khorezm is steeped in Zoroastrianism — literally, every structure bears traces of it. Islam also played a key role in the region’s development, giving a whole new appearance to places of worship and later constructions.
