House of Fayzulla Khodjaev
House museums offer unique opportunities to dive into the real, daily life of an Uzbek artist, poet, or another notable figure. To see where they worked, created and lived while also learning about the beautiful, traditional architecture of Uzbekistan. In this issue, we journey to Bukhara to visit the house museum of politician Fayzulla Khodjaev.
Text: Khayot Abdullaeva
Photos: Mamur Khalimov
Fayzulla Khodjaev (1896–1938) was a patron of education and art, a human rights defender and a follower of Jadidism (a Muslim reformist group) in the 20th century. He supported hundreds of talented Uzbeks in getting their educations both abroad and locally. Khodjaev was also very influential and active in the political life of old Bukhara. He once organised a demonstration to improve the constitution for more freedom. This was unsuccessful and eventually, Khodjaev had to leave Uzbekistan. During the massive repressions of the Soviet era, Fayzulla Khodjaev was executed, though later his reputation was completely restored.
The house where Fayzulla was born and later lived with his father, Ubaydullokhoja, a rich merchant and aesthete, sits on three hectares. Inside, visitors can see rare examples of antique furnishings, dishware, Uzbek musical instruments and elegant, period clothing worn by Bukharians, all of which were collected by both Khodjaev and his father.
The house is richly decorated with carpets, paintings and suzani fabrics. The walls of each room are colourfully painted in different patterns.
The house also has a unique structural design. The yard is divided into two parts according to Muslim tradition: the havli davrun, an internal bailey for men only, and the havli berun, an outside yard reserved for women.
Underneath the house is a huge network of mysterious tunnels. Though their purpose is still unknown, many have speculated that Khodjaev wanted to have hidden ways to escape in the event of regional instability.
Spending time in the house museum of Fayzulla Khodjaev offers the chance to experience the authentic lifestyle of Bukharians in the 20th century, as well as to try to unravel the mysteries of Fayzulla Khodjaev’s life.
Аddress: 55 Mekhtar Anbar St., Bukhara
Phone: +998 (99) 687 65 55
Opening hours: 10am–5pm weekdays; closed Saturday & Sunday
